Bruce Cameron

Note: The following column was originally published in 2009.

Take the very worst of Scottish cooking, and what do you have? English cooking. That is the conclusion of a food historian named Cathryn Brown, whose research indicates that the Scottish dish haggis isn’t Scottish at all, but was invented by the English, who apparently hate people.

To define terms: “Haggis” refers to what happens when you take inedible animal parts, mix them with horse feed and cook it in a sheep’s stomach. Nobody likes it, especially the sheep. “Scotland” is a country where it rains a lot. “England,” same thing. A “...